Every tourist in Italy hears, at some point, about hiking through the Cinque Terre. These five small fishing villages, near the border between Liguria and Tuscany, have captivated the world with their colorful buildings perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. The only problem is: victims of their own success, they become so crowded with tourists during peak season that it's difficult to get around! So, here are three tips to help you make the most of your trip to the Cinque Terre:
- Opt for the shoulder seasons: in April-May or October, the climate is mild and the crowds are much smaller.
- Take the train: Don't even try to go by car. The very convenient train line starts in La Spezia and serves all the villages. Plus, you get magnificent sea views (when the train briefly emerges from the many tunnels).
- Hiking in the Cinque Terre: that's the subject of this article! As soon as you leave the villages, there's hardly anyone on the trails, even though the view is breathtaking. It has to be said, it's quite steep…
Due to a lack of maintenance (and also because it runs along the edge of a cliff), the "official" path connecting the villages has collapsed in many places, becoming impassable. But fear not: even more beautiful alternatives are possible, you just need to be in good shape! The hike I describe here starts from the village of Riomaggiore, the first one when coming from La Spezia. It's very flexible, as each village has its own train station: you can therefore end your hike in any of them.
From Riomaggiore to Manarola: first stage of the Cinque Terre hike
When you get off the train, you can take the tunnel to visit the village in the early morning. It will probably be less crowded than the rest of the day, so take advantage of it. It is possible to swim on the beach on the far left of the village.
When you feel ready to tackle the climb, head to the far end of the village and take the steep staircase that leads uphill. The idea is to set off as early as possible: this is the hottest part of the route, facing south, and it can start getting quite warm by the end of April. But the scenery that unfolds amidst the vineyards is magnificent.
After this tough climb, you reach a viewpoint where the entire Cinque Terre coastline unfolds, all the way to Monterosso, the end point of the hike.
You can then descend the path (less steep on this side) to the village of Manarola. Again, you can take the time to explore the village and perhaps even have a quick swim before continuing. Personally, I think Manarola is the most beautiful of the villages, so be sure to take advantage of all the viewpoints you can get while wandering through the narrow streets (the one near the cemetery is particularly worth seeing).
From Manarola to Corniglia
Since the cliffside path is also closed, we'll have to climb from Manarola to a small village that isn't part of the Cinque Terre, but is absolutely charming: Volastra. The path once again winds through vineyards, climbing quite steeply.
Just past Volastra, there's a magical place I recommend stopping at. It's a sort of bar in the middle of the vineyards, which sells locally produced wine that, honestly, isn't bad. Okay, the price is quite high, but enjoying a glass of wine with such a view is unforgettable.
The trail then continues along the hillside through terraced vineyards, perched high above the sea. This is my favorite part of the Cinque Terre hike. The path is easy, so you can leisurely admire the stunning scenery. Finally, you enter the woods and descend more gently to the village of Corniglia. Unlike the others, it's not directly on the coast but perched higher up. You absolutely must go to the very end of the village, where the view from the small square is breathtaking.
From Corniglia to Vernazza
We then continued along the "official" trail connecting the Cinque Terre. It's supposed to be a paid trail, which could be justified if they used the money to maintain it, but given what I've seen, I highly doubt it. In my opinion, it's more of a way to rip off tourists. In any case, both times I went, there was no one at the small booth collecting payment: another advantage of only going during the off-season.
The path is quieter and mostly follows the hillside. There are fewer stunning viewpoints, but you pass through a lovely forest and can admire beautiful properties along the way. Finally, you arrive in Vernazza, where (for once) a well-deserved swim awaits.
From Vernazza to Monterosso: last stage of the hike in Cinque Terre
Finally, it's also possible to continue to the last of the Cinque Terre villages, Monterosso. I haven't done this part, but it should also follow the "official" trail. If you have hiked it, feel free to describe it in the comments!
If you enjoy hiking and are in the area, why not explore the Apuan Alps? It's an incredibly wild part of the Apennines, which I absolutely love. Take a look, for example, at my hiking around Monte Matanna !
If you enjoyed the landscape photographs on this page, feel free to visit the section Pictures. For example, you can order a mountain poster of my photos, which is a good way to support me ;).
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