Here's a two-day bivouac itinerary at the tip of Cap Corse, partly following the coastal path. Half of the hike hugs the coastline, while the second day explores the interior. This part of Corsica is decidedly wilder than the GR 20, which has become a highway; I highly recommend it… Let's go bivouacking in Corsica!
The Cap Corse coastal path
+ 150 m / – 100 m 14km
The start of the hike is located in Macinaggio. The village is nice but uninteresting, so we will quickly leave it following the coastal path. When I passed there at the beginning of spring, the beaches were invaded by real cliffs of posidonia. Very beautiful but not very inviting for swimming!
The path is really very beautiful, it passes right in the middle of the Corsican scrub and what's more it is deserted at the beginning of April. Looking at the vegetation and the little shade, I wouldn't recommend it for the summer...
We quickly arrive at the Santa Maria chapel in the middle of the maquis. Not far from there is the tower of the same name. As sea levels have risen since its construction, it now has its feet in the water. The place, with its deserted beach and 4th century chapel as the only visible building, is simply superb. We would happily stay there for the night but it is a protected area and bivouac is prohibited.
After the bay of Santa Maria, the path passes a few more beaches before climbing towards Punta d'Agnello. At the point itself, it's possible to climb the Agnello tower. From there, you have a beautiful view of this rocky, windswept landscape.
The trail then leads to Barcaggio, a pretty village located at the northernmost tip of Cap Corse. You can enjoy a beer at the friendly village bar. Then it's back on the road for the final part of the first day.
After the village, continue along the coastal path and turn inland at the Arena. You'll leave the protected area, so you can pitch your tent pretty much anywhere as long as you don't disturb anyone. Finally, head up the Granaggiolo stream, near which you can set up camp (as usual, I use my Decathlon tent which has the advantage of being inexpensive (although lighter options are available for two people). Given the number of cows in the area, I strongly advise boiling the stream water before drinking it…
Inland
+ 600 m / – 600 m 15km
The following day, go up the Granaggiolo stream to arrive at the village of the same name. We begin to appreciate Corsica from the inside in all its splendor: a magnificent landscape of maquis where human presence is rare. Don't miss the visit to the pretty Saint-André church near the trail.
After the village, follow the road for a while to arrive at Col Saint-Nicolas. From there, go back down to the next valley, first following a track. Cross this pretty Mediterranean landscape to the Sant'Erasmo chapel. In spring, the mix between the soft green grass and the scrub vegetation creates a very special atmosphere!
After the chapel, return to the road via some sheepfolds. Follow it for a few kilometers before finding a path that descends straight down to Macinaggio. A final swim is a must after working up a good sweat in the Corsican maquis!
NB: Due to lack of time, I followed the shortest route to return to Macinaggio on the second day. However, another entirely possible option is to follow the ridge path which passes among the wind turbines from the Serra pass. If you have traveled this route, do not hesitate to indicate it in the comments!
If you enjoyed the landscape photographs on this page, feel free to visit the section Pictures. For example, you can order a mountain poster of my photos, which is a good way to support me ;).
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