Beyond Termignon lies a stunning valley which, for me, represents the most beautiful spot in the Vanoise. From Plan du Lac to the Refuge de la Femma on snowshoes, you alternate between sublime views of the Grande Casse, a peak with almost Himalayan-like walls. Not far from there, the Dôme de Chasseforêt completes the alpine atmosphere.
Here is the description of my snowshoeing route over several days between the Plan du Lac shelters and of the WomanBoth are open in winter. The Vanoise winter refuge system (outside of the staffed season) is very efficient: you spend the night there and pay afterward on their website. If you want to do this route, be very careful of avalanche conditions: the route isn't particularly risky (the valley floor is quite wide throughout) but it is still at high altitude. Some sections might be inadvisable in conditions of high avalanche risk. The GPX file might not be very accurate as it was recorded after the fact (not surveyed on the ground).
If you like the landscape photographs on this page, feel free to take a look at the section Pictures. For example, you can order a mountain poster of my photos, which is a good way to support me ;).
Day 1: The Plan du Lac refuge on snowshoes
+ 1000 m / – 0 m 10km
From Termignon/Val Cenis, take the small road that leads to Le Suffet. Depending on the snow conditions, you may be able to drive up it for a while before having to stop. In our case, we had to start the hike right at the bottom, shortly after Termignon, which leaves an elevation gain of nearly 1000m – a rather strenuous effort for this winter hike!
Follow the path through the undergrowth up to Le Suffet. Then simply follow the road towards Plan du Lac. Further on, instead of following the winding road, you can take the path that climbs directly up the slope through abandoned hamlets. Snowshoes become necessary for this section. The path then levels out, leading to Bellecombe and its large parking lot, completely covered in snow during winter. Here, the landscape begins to evoke the high mountains.
Simply continue along the flat valley to Plan du Lac. The various lakes along the way were completely covered in snow when we passed through. We finally arrived at this magnificent refuge, located in one of the most breathtaking spots in the Vanoise. The Chasseforêt dome glows in the evening light.
The winter refuge is very comfortable. There are composting toilets, a kitchen with a gas stove, and beds with blankets. Everything you need to finally get a good rest after that tough climb!
Day 2: To Femma and back
+ 400 m / – 400 m 18km
We set off early the next day, heading for the Femma refuge. We descended the gentle slope in front of the Plan du Lac refuge. A superb view of the Grande Casse in winter unfolded before us. The road was, of course, buried under snow, but still fairly easy to follow. We descended it to Balme Froide.
We then descended to the valley floor, which climbs back up to La Femma. It's truly magnificent; the feeling of isolation is absolute. It has to be said that the 1000m elevation gain to reach Plan du Lac discourages people from coming here in winter! So we followed this enchanting valley nestled between high cliffs.
We finally arrive at the refuge. After this long trek, we feel like we've reached the end of the world. The refuge is also open in winter and is quite comfortable. We have to head back, but it's perfectly possible to stop here and explore the area, which looks stunning.
For the return trip, simply follow the same route as before. You can stop overnight at Plan du Lac or have a (very) long day and head straight back down to the car.
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