Behind Termignon, there's a superb valley that, for me, represents the most beautiful spot in the Vanoise region. From Plan du Lac to the Femma refuge on snowshoes, you alternate between sublime views of the Grande Casse peak with its almost Himalayan walls. Not far from there, the Chasseforêt dome completes the alpine atmosphere.
Here is the description of my snowshoeing route over several days between the Plan du Lac shelters and of the Woman, both open in winter. The winter refuge system (outside the guarding period) in Vanoise is very efficient: you spend the night there, and pay afterwards on their website. If you want to do this route, be very careful of avalanche conditions: the route is not particularly risky (fairly wide valley floor all the way) but still takes place at high altitude. Some sections may not be recommended in conditions of high avalanche risk. The GPX may not be very accurate because it was plotted after the fact (not recorded on the ground).
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Day 1: The Plan du Lac refuge on snowshoes
+ 1000 m / – 0 m 10km
From Termignon/Val Cenis, take the small road that leads to Le Suffet. Depending on the snow conditions, you can drive up it for a longer or shorter time before having to stop. In this case, we had to start the hike at the very bottom shortly after Termignon, which leaves an elevation gain of almost 1000m, a somewhat intense effort for this winter hike!
Climb the path through the undergrowth to Le Suffet. Then simply follow the road to Plan du Lac. Further on, instead of following the switchbacks in the road, you can follow the path that climbs directly up the slope through abandoned hamlets. Snowshoes are essential for progress. The path then becomes flatter to reach Bellecombe and its large parking lot, completely covered in snow in winter. Here, the landscape is already beginning to take on the air of high mountains.
Simply continue along the flat valley to Plan du Lac. The various lakes along the route were completely covered in snow when we passed through. We finally arrive at this magnificent refuge, located in one of the most breathtaking spots in the Vanoise region. The Chasseforêt dome glows in the evening light.
The winter shelter is very comfortable. There are dry toilets, a kitchen with gas, and beds with blankets. Finally, a good place to rest after the tough climb!
Day 2: to Femma and back
+ 400 m / – 400 m 18km
We set off early the next day, heading for the Femma refuge. We descend the gentle slope in front of the Plan du Lac refuge. A superb view of the Grande Casse in winter opens up before us. The road is, of course, buried under snow, but it's still fairly easy to follow. We descend to the Balme Froide.
We then descend into the valley floor, which leads up to La Femma. It's truly superb; the feeling of isolation is at its maximum. It must be said that the 1,000m elevation gain to reach Plan du Lac discourages people from coming here in winter! So we follow this delightful valley nestled between high rock walls.
We finally arrive at the refuge. It feels like we've reached the end of the world after all this remote journey. The refuge is also open in winter and is quite comfortable. We have to head back, but it's perfectly possible to stop here and explore the area a bit, as it looks superb.
For the return trip, simply follow the outward route. You can stop for the night at Plan du Lac or have a (very) long day and head straight back down to the car.
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